This mouth watering berry is probably the most loved of all summer fruits. They are also the quickest cropper of all fruits and summer varieties with give a good sized crop in their first year.
Unlike most other fruits, strawberries are produced on low growing, herbaceous plants. The cropping life of the plants is short, strawberry beds are usually replanted with fresh stock after three to four seasons. Most varieties reproduce via runners, so as long as the main plants are healthy, you can propagate your own stock at no extra cost.
Strawberries usually are grown in beds, but also do well in window boxes or earthenware strawberry pots.
Site and soil
Because strawberries flower early in the year and close to the ground they are very susceptible to spring frosts, so allow low lying frost pockets.
A sunny site is necessary for any successful strawberry growing and a sheltered position would be favourable.
Wild strawberries are normally found in rich woodland soil, home grown strawberries are more successful if cultivate in similar conditions. Ideally the ground should be deep, with a high content of organic matter and well drained. Also the soil should be moisture retentive,as the plants are dependant on a steady supply of water during the growing season.
A slight acid soil with a ph level of 6.5 would be ideal. Light loams are preferable over very heavy soils as they tend to warm up quicker in the spring, thus giving earlier crops. Disease, such as redcore are more likely to develop on very heavy soils.
It is not a good idea to plant strawberries after potatoes as they are subject to many of the same diseases.
Preparation and planting
Prepare the soil at least a month before planting, double digging in well rotted organic material, making sure you have removed all traces of perennial weeds and their roots. After doing this lightly tred the soil and rake over the surface.
Summer fruiting varieties can be planted in late summer, early autumn or mid spring.
When planting space each strawberry plant 45cms apart and 75cms between each row. Leave slight more space if you intend to use the plants as propagation only, so the runners have room to develop.
It is important to plant the strawberries at the right depth. Too deep the crowns will rot and too shallow the root will dry out. The soil should be mid way up the crown.
Always firm the plants in then water afterwards, this is best done in the evening.
Cultivation and care
Water frequently during the early weeks after planting, especially if planted in the summer. Carry on watering in dry conditions until the plants are established. Another important time when watering is important, is when the fruit starts to swell.
In late spring the plants produce stolons, which are runners with a plantlet at each joint. These should be removed unless you intend propagating new plants.
In the first season remove the flowers, this will give a stronger crop next year. Throughout the year keep weeds under control with frequent hoeing.
The following season remove runners when they arise, water in very dry conditions and keep weeds under control. Slug control may be a problem as the fruit start to ripen, an alternative to slug pellets is a saucer of beer placed at ground level. As soon as the fruit becomes red they will be ready to eat, when picking hold on to the stalk, so you do not bruise or damage the fruit.
You will find the strawberry plant crops for about four weeks.
At the end of the season remove all the dead foliage, this will reduce the risk of infection.
Propagation
After three or four years strawberries are at risk of virus infection, so it is a good idea to replace the plants after this period. New plants can be obtained from the runners produced from the main plants.
As the runner grows it will form at least three plantlets, use the first one and cut the runner after the first plantlet. I normally place a small pot filled with compost under the first plantlet, this allows the removal of the young plant later without causing too much root disturbance.
When the plantlet has rooted, sever the runner from its parent plant with a sharp knife. When the plants have developed a healthy root system they can be planted out into the final bed.
